Coffea: The Application of green Components in Cosmetics Formulation

https://doi.org/10.22146/mot.66626

Liza Pratiwi(1*)

(1) Pharmacy Departement, Faculty of Medicine, Tanjungpura University, Pontianak
(*) Corresponding Author

Abstract


In recent years, the use of green components has attracted significant attention because of their safety, various pharmacological effects, various possible formulation applications, and renewable sources. Regarding its development, coffee is a potential candidate for alternatives of synthetic chemicals in cosmetic preparations because it contains active compounds including polyphenols, caffeine, chlorogenic acid, flavonoids, and alkaloids, which are effective for use on the skin as an antioxidant, anti-aging, sunscreen, moisturizer, anti-cellulite, and face brightener. The stratum corneum is the outer layer of skin that is so impenetrable that requires a formulation to help active compounds penetrate its deeper layers. The development of formulation, type, area of origin, part of the coffee used, and the extraction method affects the characteristics of obtained cosmetics.


Keywords


Coffea; Cosmetics; Formulation; Active compound

Full Text:

PDF


References

Acevedo, F., Rubilar, M., Scheuermann, E., Cancino, B., Uquiche, E., Garces, M., et al., 2013, ‘Spent coffee grounds as a renewable source of bioactive compounds’, J Biobased Mater Bio. 7,1-9.

Ajhar, N., and Meilani, D., 2020, ‘Phytochemical Screening and Antioxidant Activity Test of Ethanol Extract of Arabica Coffee Beans (Coffea arabica) Growing in Gayo Area Using the DPPH Method’, Pharma Xplore. 5 (1), 34-40.

Allan, H., Conney., Lu, Y., Lou, Y.R., Kawasumi, M., and Nghiem, P., 2013, ‘Mechanisms of Caffeine-Induced Inhibition of UVB Carcinogenesis Cancer moleculer targets and therapeutic’, Front Oncol. 3, 1-11.

Almeida., Mandelli, M., Chacra, B., Nádia, A., Conte., et al., 2013, ‘Evaluation of Physical and Chemical Stability of Nanostructured Lipid Carries Containing Ursolic Acid in Cosmetic Formulation’, Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, 3 (1): 005-008.

Amigoni., Stuknyte, M., Ciaramelli, C., Magoni, C., Bruni, I., et al., 2017, ‘Green coffee extract enhances oxidative stress resistance and delays aging in Caenorhabditis elegans Loredana’, Journal of Functional Foods. 33, 297-306.

Arwangga, A.F., Asih, I.A., and Sudiarta, I.W., 2016, ‘Analysis of Caffeine in Coffee in Sesaot Narmada Village Using UV-Vis Spectrophotometry’, Journal of Chemistry. 10 (1):110-114.

Babova, O., Occhipinti, A., Massimo, E., and Maffei., 2016, ‘Chemical partitioning and antioxidant capacity of green coffee (Coffea arabica and Coffea canephora) of different geographical origin’, Phytochemistry. 123, 33–39.

Baumann, L., 2005, ‘How to Prevent Photoaging?’, Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 125, 1-2.

Belitz, H.D., Grosch, M., and Schieberle, P., 2009, Food Chemistry, 4th ed. Springer-Verlag, Berlin.

Bhupathiraju, S.N., Pan, A., Malik, V.S., Manson, J.E., Willett, W.C., Van, D.R., et al., 2013, ‘Caffeinated and caffeine-free beverages and risk of type 2 diabetes’, Am J Clin Nutr. 97,155–166.

Blair, C., 1968, ‘Morphology and thickness of the human stratum corneum’, Br J Dermatol. 80, 430.

Bravo, J., Monente, C., Juániz, I., De Peña, M.P., and Cid, C., 2013, ‘Influence of extraction process on antioxidant capacity of spent coffee’, Food Research International. 50, 610-616.

Brud, K., and Brud, W.S., 1999, ‘Essential oils as active ingredients for the treatment of cellulite’, Drugstore. 1, 12-20.

Budryn, G., Nebesny, E., and Oracz, J., 2015. ‘Correlation between the stability of chlorogenic acids, antioxidant activity and acrylamide content in coffee beans roasted in different conditions’, Int. J. Food Prop. 18 (2), 290-302.

Buzanello, E.B., Machado, G.T., Kuhnen., Mazzarino, L., and Maraschin, M., 2020, ‘Nanoemulsions containing oil and aqueous extract of green coffee beans with antioxidant and antimicrobial activities’, Nano Express. 1, 1-14.

Cammerer, B., and Kroh, L.W., 2006, ‘Antioxidant activity of coffee brews. European Food Research and Technology’. 223, 469-474.

Cano-Marquina, A., Tarín, J.J., and Cano, A., 2013, ‘The impact of coffee on health’, Maturitas. 75, 7–21.

Chairgulprasert, V., and Kittiya, K., 2017, ‘Preliminary Phytochemical Screening and Antioxidant Activity of Robusta Coffee Blossom’, Thammasat International Journal of Science and Technology. 22 (1), 1-8.

Chaiyasut, C., Sivamruthi, B.S., Makhamruerang, N., Sirithunyalug, J., Peerajan, S., et al., 2018, ‘Formulation and Stability Assesment of Arabica and Civet Coffee Extract Based Cosmetic Preparation’, Asian J Pharm Clin Res. 11 (6), 425-429.

Cheong, M.W., Tong, K.H., Ong, J.J., Liu, S.Q., Curran, P., and Yu, B., 2013, ‘Volatile composition and antioxidant capacity of Arabica coffee’, Food Research International. 51, 388-396.

Cho, A.R., Park, K.W., Kim, K.M., Kim, S.Y., and Han, J., 2014, ‘Influence of roasting conditions on the antioxidant characteristics of Colombian coffee (Coffea arabica L.) beans’, J. Food Biochem. 38, 271-280.

Choi, B., and Koh, E., 2017, ‘Spent coffee as a rich source of antioxidative compounds’, Food Sci Biotechnol. 26, 921-927.

Christophers, E., and Kligman, A.M., 1964, ‘Visualization of the cell layers of the stratum corneum’, J Invest Dermatol. 42, 407.

Clifford, M.N., 1999, ‘Chlorogenic acids and other cinnamates–nature, occurrence and dietary burden’, J. Sci. Food Agri. 79, 362-372.

Draelos, Z.D., 2010, Cosmetic Dermatology Products and Procedures, Blackwell Publishing, Ltd, USA.

Dziki, D., Dziki, G.U., Pecio, L., zyło, R., S´wieca, M., et al., 2015, ‘Ground green coffee beans as a functional food supplement–Preliminary study’, LWT-Food Sci. Technol. 63 (1), 691-699.

Dzulhi, S., Anwar, E., and Nurhayati, T., 2018, ‘Formulation, Characterization and In Vitro Skin Penetration of Green Tea (Camellia sinensis L.) Leaves Extract-Loaded Solid Lipid Nanoparticle’, JAPS. 8 (8), 57-62.

Egelrud, T., and Desquamation., 2000, Dry Skin and Moisturizers, 1st ed. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press.

Farah, A., 2012, ‘Coffee constituents, Coffee: Emerging Health Effects and Disease Prevention’, 1sted, Blackwell Publishing Ltd, USA.

Girsang, L.C., Fachrial, E., and Listerc, I.N., 2020, ‘Effectiveness Test of Robusta Coffee (Coffea cenephora) Extract from North Sumatra in Collagen and Hydration Skin Level of Female Wistar Rattus norvegicus’, American Scientific Research Journal for Engineering, Technology and Sciences. 65 (1), 108-115.

Griffits, C., Russman, A.N., Majmudar, G., and Singer, R.S., 1993. ‘Restoration of collagen Formation in photodamage Human Skin by Tretinoin’, New England Journal of Medicine. 329 (8), 530-535.

Handayani, R., Srarumtias, F.F., Sofwan, S.S., 2020, ‘Lipbalm preparation formulation from arabica coffee bean extract (Coffea arabica L.) Java Preanger as emollient’, JIF Farmasyifa. 4(1), 105-111.

Haynes, A., 1997, ‘Behind a Beautiful Face: Facts About The Benefits And Risks Of Cosmetics’, Indonesian Consumers Foundation, Jakarta.

Herman., and Herman, A.P., 2013, ‘Caffeine’s Mechanisms of Action and Its Cosmetic Use’, Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 26, 8-14.

Hudáková, J., Marcinčáková, D., and Legáth, J., 2016, ‘Study of Antioxidant Effects of Selected Types of Coffee’, Folia Veterinaria. 60 (3), 34-38.

Kiattisin, K., Nantarat, T., and Leelapornpisid, P., 2016, ‘Evaluation of antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities as well as stability of green and roasted coffee bean extracts from Coffea arabica and Coffea canephora grown in Thailand’, Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytotherapy. 8(10), 182-192.

Kim, J.H., Ahn, D.U., Eun, J.B., and Moon, S.H., 2016, ‘Antioxidant effect of extracts from the coffee residue in raw and cooked meat’, Antioxidants (Basel). 5 (3), 1-10.

Kučera, L., Papoušek, R., Kurka, O., Barták, P., and Bednář, P., 2016, ‘Study of composition of espresso coffee prepared from various roast degrees of Coffea arabica L. coffee beans’, Food Chemistry.199, 727-735.

Kusumanti, D.P., Sayuti, N.A., and Indarto, A.S., 2017, ‘Sunscreen Activity with Javanese Cold Powder Formula’, Indones J Pharm Sci Technol. 1(1), 1-7.

León, C.J.R., and Galano, A., 2011, ‘Is Caffeine a Good Scavenger of Oxygenated Free Radicals?. J. Phys. Chem. B.115, 4538-4546.

Lenart, D., 2011, ‘Cellulit or cellulitis?’, Magazine Pharmacy. 2 (91), 72-73.

Ludwig, I., Sanchez, L., Caemmerer, B., Kroh, L.W., De Peña, M.P., and Cid, C. 2012, ‘Extraction of coffee antioxidants: Impact of brewing time and method’, Food Research International. 48, 57-64.

Marto, L.F., Gouveia, B.G., Chiari, A., Paiva, V., Isaac, P., et al., 2016, ‘The green generation of sunscreens: Using coffee industrial sub-products’, Industrial Crops and Products. (80), 93-100.

Magnani, C., Thais, S.O., Vera, L.I., Marcos, A.C., and Herida, R.S., 2015, ‘Validation of Caffeic Acid in Emulsion by UV-Spectrophotometric Method’, Journal Physical Chemistry. 5(1),16-22.

Mohiuddin, A.K., 2019, ‘Cosmetics in use: a pharmacological review’, J Dermat Cosmetol. 3(2), 50-67.

Mussatto, S.I, Ballesteros, L.F., Martins, S., and Teixeira, J.A., 2011, ‘Extraction of antioxidant phenolic compounds from spent coffee grounds’, Separation and Purification Technology. 83, 173-179.

Noszczyk, M., 2010, Lipodystrophy-Cellulit, Nursing and Therapeutic Cosmetology, PZWL Publishing House, Warsaw.

Nosaria, A.B., Lima, J.F., Serra, O.A., and Freitas, L.A., 2015, ‘Improved green coffee oil antioxidant activity for cosmetical purpose by spray drying microencapsulation’, Rev Bras Farm. 25, 307-311.

Page, J.C., Arruda, N.P., and Freitas, S.P., 2017,’Crude ethanolic extract from spent coffee grounds: Volatile and functional properties’, Waste Manag. 69, 463-469.

Panusa, A., Zuorro, A., Lavecchia, R., Marrosu, G., and Petrucci, R., 2013, ‘Recovery of Natural Antioxidants from Spent Coffee Grounds’, Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry. 61, 4162-4168.

Patay, E.B., Bencsik, T., and Papp, N., 2016, Phytochemical overview and medicinal importance of Coffea species from the past until now’, Asian Pasific Journal of Tropical Medicine. 9 (12), 1127-1135.

Pettinato, M., Aliakbarian, B., Casazza, A.A., and Perego, P., 2017, ‘Encapsulation of Antioxidants from Spent Coffee Ground Extracts by Spray Drying’, Chemical Engineering Transtions. 57, 1219-1224.

Pratiwi, L., 2021, ‘Novel antimicrobial activities of self-nanoemulsifying drug delivery system ethyl acetate fraction from Garcinia mangostana L. peels against Staphylococcus epidermidis: Design, optimization, and in vitro studies’, Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science. 11(03), 162-171.

Pratiwi, L., Sari, R., and Apridamayanti, P., 2021, ‘Design and Characterization of Nanospray With Self-Nanoemulsifying Drug Delivery System Using Sinergistic Combination of Melastoma malabathricum L. Fraction and Gentamicin’, Int J App Pharm. 13 (2), 254-263.

Plotnikov, E., Zhuravkov, S., Gapeyev, A., Plotnikov, V., Martemianova, I., and Martemianov, D., 2017, ‘Comparative Study of Genotoxicity of Silver and Gold Nanoparticles Prepared by the Electric Spark Dispersion Method’, Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, 7 (7), 35-39.

Prieto, M.A., and Vázquez, J.A., 2014, ‘In vitro determination of the lipophilic and hydrophilic antioxidant capacity of unroasted coffee bean extracts and their synergistic and antagonistic effects’, Food Res. Int. 62, 1183-1196.

Pristiana, D.Y., Susanti, S., and Nurwantoro, N., 2017, ‘Antioxidant Activity and Phenol Levels of Various Coffee Leaf Extracts (Coffea sp.): Potential Applications of Natural Ingredients for Food Fortification’, J Apl Teknol Pangan. 6(2), 89-92.

Proksch, E., and Jensen, J., 2008, Skin as an organ of protection. Dermatology in General Medicine, 7th New York, NY: McGraw-Hill.

Ranic, M., Nikolic, M., Pavlovic, M., Buntic, A., and Marinkovic, S., et al., 2014, ‘Optimization of microwave-assisted extraction of natural antioxidants from spent espresso coffee grounds by response surface methodology’, Journal of Cleaner Production. 80, 69-79.

Ribeiro, H., Marto, J., Raposo, S., Agapito, M., Isaac, V., Chiari, B.G., et al., 2013, ‘From coffee industry waste materials to skin-friendly products with improved skin fat levels’, Eur J Lipid Sci Technol.115, 330-336.

Rittié, L., Athanasopoulos, T., Garcia, M.C., Davies, M.L., Dow, D.J., Howe, S.J., et al., 2019, ‘The Landscape of Early Clinical Gene Therapies outside of Oncology Molecular Therapy’, The American Society of Gene and Cell Therapy. 27 (10), 1706-1717.

Rubio, L., Alonso, C., Coderch, L., Parra, J.L., Martí, M., Cebrián, J., et al., 2010, ‘Skin delivery of caffeine contained in biofunctional textiles’, Text Res J. 80, 1214-1221.

Sentkowska, A., Skowron, M.J., and Pyrzynska, K., 2016, ‘Comparative studies on the antioxidant properties of different Green coffee extracts’, MOJ Food Process Technol. 3(2), 296-302.

Seo, S.N., and Kim, Y.M., 2019, ‘Implications for Beneficial Effects on Cosmetic Activity by Optimizing the 4 Coffee Variety Extraction Process’, Natural Product Communications. 5, 1-5.

Rodrigues, F., Gaspar, C., Oliveira, A.P., Sarmento, B., Amaral, M.H.M., and Oliveira, B.P., 2016, ‘Application of Coffee Silverskin in cosmetic formulations: physical/antioxidant stability studies and cytotoxicity effects’, Drug Dev Ind Pharm. 42(1), 99-106.

Saewan, N., and Jimtaisong, A., 2013, ‘Photoprotection of natural flavonoids’, J Appl Pharm Sci, 3(9), 129-141.

Safrida, S., and Sabri, M., 2017, ‘Potential of Aceh Coffee Extract (Coffea arabica L.) in Rejuvenation of Aging Skin in Rat’, Journal of Veterinary Medicine. 11(3),101-103.

Serpone, N., Dondi, D., Albini, A., 2007, ‘Inorganic and organic UV filters: Their role and efficacy in sunscreens and suncare products’, Inorganica Chimica Acta. 360: 794–802.

Shi, X., Dalal, N.S., Jain, A.C., 1991, ‘Antioxidant behaviour of caffeine: Efficient scavenging of hydroxyl radicals. Food Chem’, Toxicol. 29, 1-6.

Singh, G., Joyce, E.M., Beddow, J., and Mason, T.J., 2012, ‘Evaluation of antibacterial activity of ZnO nanoparticles coated sonochemically onto textile fabrics’, J. Microbiol. Biotechnol. Food Sci, 2, 106-20.

Singleton, V.I., Ortofer, R., and Raventos, R.M., 1999, Analysis of total phenols and other oxidation substances and antioxidants by means of Folin-Ciocalteu reagent. In Packer, L. (Ed.): Methods in Enzymology. Academic Press.

Smijs, T.G., and Pavel, S., 2011, ‘Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles in sunscreens: focus on their safety and effectiveness’, Nanotechnol Sci Appl. 13 (4), 95-112.

Sunoqrot, S., Al-Shalabi, E., Ibrahim, H.L., and Zalloum, H., 2019, ‘Nature-inspired polymerization of quercetin to produce antioxidant nanoparticles with controlled size and skin tone-matching colors’, Molecules. 24, 1-12.

Sunoqrot, S., Al-Shalabi, E., Al-Bakri, A.G., Zalloum, H., Abu-Irmaileh, B., et al., 2021, ‘Coffee Bean Polyphenols Can Form Biocompatible Template-free Antioxidant Nanoparticles with Various Sizes and Distinct Colors’, ACS Omega. 6, 2767-2776.

Vega, R.C., Piña, G.L., Hayde, A., Castañeda, V., and Oomah, D., 2015, ‘Spent coffee grounds: A review on current research and future prospects’, Trends in Food Science & Technology. 45, 24-36.

Wadhawan, M., and Anand, A.C., 2016, ‘Coffee and Liver Disease. Journal of Clinical and Experimental Hepatology, 2016; 6: 40-46.

Wang, S.Q., and Tooley, R., 2011, ‘Photoprotection in the era of nanotechnology’, Semin. Cutan. Med. Surg. J. 30, 210-213.

Wasitaatmaja. 1997. Medical Cosmetics Science Guide, Unversitas Indonesia Press.

Wilson, C., 2018, ‘The clinical toxicology of caffeine: A review and case study. Toxicology Reports, 2018; 5:1140-52.

Uito, J., Chu, M., Gallo, R., and Eizen, A.Z., 2008, Collagen, Elastic fibers and Extracellular Matrix of the Dermis.

Xiang, L., 2015, ‘Anti-aging cosmetics and its efficacy assessment methods’, Global Conference on Polymer and Composite Materials. 87, 1-5.

Yanni, D., Mardhiani, Yulianti, H., Azhary, D.P., and Rusdian, T., 2017, ‘Formulation and Stability of Serum From Green Coffee Extract (Coffea canephora var. Robusta) As Antioxidants’, Indonesia Natural Research Pharmaceutical Journal. 2 (2), 19-33.

Yashin, A., Yashin, Y., Wang, J.Y., and Nemzer, B., 2013, ‘Antioxidant and Antiradical Activity of Coffee’, Antioxidants. 2: 230-45.

Yuliawati, K.M., Sadiyah, E.R., Solehati, R., and Elgiawan, A., 2019, ‘Sunscreen Activity Testing of Robusta Coffee (Coffea cenephora ex Froehner) Leave Extract and Fractions’, Indonesian Journal of Pharmaceutical Science and Technology.1(1), 24-29.

Zainol, M.K., Subri, I., Zamri, A.I., Zin, Z., Fisal, A., et al., 2020, ‘Antioxidative properties and proximate analysis of spent coffee ground (SCG) extracted using ultrasonic-methanol assisted technique as a potential functional food ingredient’, H. Food Research. 4(3), 636-644.

Zhou, J., Zhou, S., Zeng, S., Jiyin, Z., and Shengya, Z., 2013, ‘Experimental diabetes treated with trigonelline: effect on β cell and pancreatic oxidative parameters’, Fundam Clin Pharmacol. 27(3), 279-287.



DOI: https://doi.org/10.22146/mot.66626

Article Metrics

Abstract views : 1704 | views : 2199

Refbacks

  • There are currently no refbacks.




Copyright (c) 2021 Majalah Obat Tradisional

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.

©Majalah Obat Tradisional (Trad.Med.J) 
Faculty of Pharmacy
Universitas Gadjah Mada