Physicochemical evaluation and delayed aging activity of the cream containing aloe vera and rosella extracts
Keywords:
Cream formula; Aloe gel; Rosella; Anti-collagenase; SPF
Abstract
Anti-aging cream is a cosmetic product that prevents premature aging. Aloe vera and rosella have been reported to exhibit various pharmacological activities, including anti-aging. Meanwhile, the use of a combination of these two natural products has not been widely reported. This research aims to determine the potential antioxidant and anti-collagenase activities of the combination of aloe vera and rosella in cream products. This study analyzed the quality of cream according to physical parameters, cream chemical content, antioxidant activity, anti-collagenase, and sunscreen protection factor (SPF) test of cream products. The cream formulas had white to pink colors, were semi-solid, homogeneous, and had an O/W emulsion type. Total polysaccharide content in the cream ranged from 0.73% - 0.83%, o-acetyl polysaccharide content ranged from 1.36%-3.53%, flavonoid content ranged from 2.95×10-6-6.50×10-6 g QE/g, anthocyanin content ranged from 4.57-35.94 mg/kg, phenolic content ranged from 5.06×10-6-9.42×10-6 g GAE/g. The radical scavenging, anti-collagenase activities, and SPF value of cream formulas ranged from 22.14%-50.36%, 6.85%-54.66%, and 8.21±0.01-8.73±0.02, respectively. According to all test results, the recommended cream product is C formula (1:1). Cream containing aloe vera gel and rosella flower extracts are potentially to be developed as anti-aging cream product.
References
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Ghimeray, A. K., Jung, U. S., Lee, H. Y., Kim, Y. H., Ryu, E. K. & Chang, M. S. (2015). In vitro antioxidant, collagenase inhibition, and in vivo anti-wrinkle effects of combined formulation containing Punica granatum, Ginkgo biloba, Ficus carica, and Morus alba fruits extract. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 389–396. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S80906
Handayani, S., Aprilia, D., Nisa, K., Rosyida, V. T., Wulanjati, M. P., Windarsih, A., Darsih, C., Frediansyah, A. & Haryanti, S. (2021). A mini-review: possible mechanisms of hepatoprotective effect of aloe vera gel. Indonesian Journal of Cancer Chemoprevention, 12(3), 170–179. https://doi.org/10.14499/indonesianjcanchemoprev12iss3pp170-179
Handayani, S., Ni’maturrohmah, D., Indrianingsih, A. W., Nisa, K., Windarsih, A., Darsih, C., Sefrienda, A. R., Suryani, A. E. & Haryanti, S. (2023). Molecular docking study of aloesin and its derivatives as potential antiaging agents. Proceedings of the 1st International Conference for Health Research (ICHR BRIN), 1(1), 288–299. https://doi.org/10.2991/978-94-6463-112-8_28
Ijaz, N., Durrani, A. I., Rubab, S. & Bahadur, S. (2022). Formulation and characterization of Aloe vera gel and tomato powder containing cream. Acta Ecologica Sinica, 42(2), 34–42. https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.1016/j.chnaes.2021.01.005
Indrianingsih, A. W., Khasanah, Y., Noviana, E., Rahayu, E., Hastuti, H. P., Ni’maturrohmah, D., Suryani, A. E., Darsih, C., Windarsih, A. & Handayani, S. (2023). The effect of soaking of white and red varieties of Sorghum bicolor flour on its antioxidant, antidiabetic and physicochemical properties. Food and Humanity, 1, 1531–1538. https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foohum.2023.10.020
Jeong, H. D., Kim, J. H., Kwon, G. E. & Lee, S. T. (2022). Expression of Polyamine Oxidase in Fibroblasts Induces MMP-1 and Decreases the Integrity of Extracellular Matrix. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 23(18). https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms231810487
Junaidi, L., Wijaya, H., Jarief, R. S. & Angkasa, D. (2021). Pengaruh proses fermentasi dan non-fermentasi serta pengeringan dengan metode spray drying terhadap mutu serbuk minuman instan dari buah naga merah (Hylocereus polyrhizus). Warta Industri Hasil Pertanian, 38(2), 98–107. https://doi.org/10.32765/wartaihp.v38i2.6986
Kanthik, T., Lokham, S. & Sungthongjeen, S. (2020). Development of sunscreen products containing titanium dioxide and Aloe vera gel. Key Engineering Materials, 859(1), 159–165. https://doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/KEM.859.159
Karwal, K. & Mukovozov, I. (2023). Topical AHA in dermatology: formulations, mechanisms of action, efficacy, and future perspectives. Cosmetics, 10(5), 1–12. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050131
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Madan, K. & Nanda, S. (2018). In-vitro evaluation of antioxidant, anti-elastase, anti-collagenase, anti-hyaluronidase activities of safranal and determination of its sun protection factor in skin photoaging. Bioorganic Chemistry, 77, 159–167. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bioorg.2017.12.030
Mahmudatussa’adah, A., Nurani, A. S., Karpin, Juwaedah, A. & Patriasih, R. (2023). The potential of purple sweet potato and rosella flower extract as a health drink. AIP Conference Proceedings, 2734(1), 40004. https://doi.org/10.1063/5.0155370
Metcalfe, C. (2019). Quantitation of Aloe vera polysaccharides by O-acetyl and UV-Vis spectrophotometry. Journal of AOAC International, 102(4), 1091–1094. https://doi.org/10.5740/jaoacint.18-0400
Meza-Valle, K. Z., Saucedo-Acuña, R. A., Tovar-Carrillo, K. L., Cuevas-González, J. C., Zaragoza-Contreras, E. A. & Melgoza-Lozano, J. (2021). Characterization and topical study of aloe vera hydrogel on wound-healing process. Polymers, 13(22). https://doi.org/10.3390/polym13223958
Miastkowska, M., Kulawik-Pióro, A. & Szczurek, M. (2020). Nanoemulsion gel formulation optimization for burn wounds: Analysis of rheological and sensory properties. Processes, 8(11), 1–26. https://doi.org/10.3390/pr8111416
Monica, E., Yuliati, L. & Yuniati, Y. (2020). Red Pigmented Natural Extract as Potential Organic UV Filter and Its Use in Combination with ZnO as Sunscreen Cream. Hsic 2019, 176–180. https://doi.org/10.5220/0009126501760180
Okafo, S. E., Anie, C. O., Alalor, C. A. & Nwankwo, L. U. (2023). Evaluation of physicochemical and antimicrobial properties of creams formulated using Pterocarpus santalinoides seeds methanol extract. Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, 13(5), 126–135. https://doi.org/10.7324/JAPS.2023.19934
Plácido, A., Bueno, J., Barbosa, E. A., Moreira, D. C., Dias, J. D. N., Cabral, W. F., Albuquerque, P., Bessa, L. J., Freitas, J., Kuckelhaus, S. A. S., Lima, F. C. D. A., Batagin-Neto, A., Brand, G. D., Relvas, J. B., Leite, J. R. S. A. & Eaton, P. (2020). The antioxidant peptide salamandrin-i: First bioactive peptide identified from skin secretion of salamandra genus (Salamandra salamandra). Biomolecules, 10(4), 1–20. https://doi.org/10.3390/biom10040512
Ramadhani, R. R., Pangkahila, W. & Wiraguna, A. A. G. P. (2019). Rosella Flower 3% (Hibiscus sabdariffa) Extract Inhibited the Expression of Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 dan Collagen Reduction on Wistar Rat Exposed to Ultraviolet-B. International Journal of Science and Research (IJSR), 10(1), 2019–2022. https://doi.org/10.21275/SR21112182003
Sandi, D. A. D. & Susiani, E. F. (2021). Formulation of edible bird’s nest (Aerodramus fuciphagus) from Central Kalimantan as skin whitening and moisturizing cream. Journal of Pharmacy and Bioallied Sciences, 13(1), 39–45. https://doi.org/10.4103/jpbs.JPBS_276_19
Sangthong, S., Pintathong, P., Pongsua, P., Jirarat, A. & Chaiwut, P. (2022). Polysaccharides from Volvariella volvacea mushroom: extraction, biological activities and cosmetic efficacy. Journal of Fungi, 8(6), 1–19. https://doi.org/10.3390/jof8060572
Sedyadi, E., Aini, S. K., Anggraini, D. & Ekawati, D. P. (2016). Starch-Glycerol Based Edible Film and Effect of Rosella (Hibiscus Sabdariffa Linn) Extract and Surimi Dumbo Catfish (Clarias gariepinus) Addition on Its Mechanical Properties. Biology, Medicine, & Natural Product Chemistry, 5(2), 33. https://doi.org/10.14421/biomedich.2016.52.33-40
Shi, X.-D., Nie, S.-P., Yin, J.-Y., Que, Z.-Q., Zhang, L.-J. & Huang, X.-J. (2017). Polysaccharide from leaf skin of Aloe barbadensis Miller: Part I. Extraction, fractionation, physicochemical properties and structural characterization. Food Hydrocolloids, 73, 176–183. https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodhyd.2017.06.039
Sturza, A., Păucean, A., Chiș, M. S., Mureșan, V., Vodnar, D. C., Man, S. M., Urcan, A. C., Rusu, I. E., Fostoc, G. & Muste, S. (2020). Influence of buckwheat and buckwheat sprouts flours on the nutritional and textural parameters of wheat buns. Applied Sciences (Switzerland), 10(22), 1–21. https://doi.org/10.3390/app10227969
Tungadi, R., Madania & Aini, B. H. (2022). Formulasi dan evaluasi sabun padat transparan dari ekstrak bunga rosella (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.). Indonesian Journal of Pharmaceutical Education, 2(2), 117–124. https://doi.org/10.37311/ijpe.v2i2.14060
Adlakha, K., Koul, B. & Kumar, A. (2022). Value-added products of Aloe species: Panacea to several maladies. South African Journal of Botany, 147, 1124–1135. https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.1016/j.sajb.2020.12.025
Alipour, H., Raz, A., Djadid, N. D. & Zakeri, S. (2019). Expression of a new recombinant collagenase protein of lucilia sericata in sf9 insect cell as a potential method for wound healing. Iranian Journal of Biotechnology, 17(4), 16–24. https://doi.org/10.30498/ijb.2019.92707
Artanti, N., Dewijanti, I. D., Muzdalifah, D., Windarsih, A., Suratno, S. & Handayani, S. (2023). Alpha glucosidase inhibitory activity of combination of Caesalpinia sappan L. and Garcinia mangostana extract. Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, 13(5), 189–198. https://doi.org/10.7324/JAPS.2023.117478
Aryanti, N., Nafiunisa, A. & Wardhani, D. H. (2019). Conventional and ultrasound-assisted extraction of anthocyanin from red and purple roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.) calyces and characterisation of its anthocyanin powder. International Food Research Journal, 26(2), 529–535.
Ayubi, N., Padmasari, D. F., Syafawi, A., Mario, D. T., Ming, J. W., Aljunaid, M., Pranoto, N. W. & Komaini, A. (2024). Potential of Polyphenolic Compounds in Rosella Flowers on Reducing Oxidative Stress and Inflammation After Exercise: A Systematic Review. Physical Education Theory and Methodology , 24(1), 169–179. https://doi.org/10.17309/tmfv.2024.1.20
Bikiaris, N. D., Koumentakou, I., Hatzistamatiou, K., Lykidou, S., Barmpalexis, P. & Nikolaidis, N. (2023). Preparation and investigation of the spf and antioxidant properties of o/w and w/o emulsions containing vitamins a, c and e for cosmetic applications. Cosmetics, 10(3), 1–14. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10030076
Chandra, E. C., Wulandari, R., Ni’maturrohmah, D., Arsiningtyas, I. S., Nisa, K., Sefrienda, A. R., Suryani, A. E., Haryanti, S. & Handayani, S. (2024). Antioxidant and antielastase activities of antiaging granules containing aloe vera (Aloe vera (L.) Burm.f.) and rosella (Hibiscus sabdariffa Linn.). IOP Conference Series: Earth and Environmental Science, 1377(1), 12058. https://doi.org/10.1088/1755-1315/1377/1/012058
Dayal, A., Bhat, A. & Rashid, R. (2018). Effect of maltodextrin on the properties of lyophilized Aloe vera (Aloe Barbadensis Mill) powder. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry, 7(4), 1604–1608.
Dina, A., Pramono, S. & Sugihartini, N. (2017). Optimation of emulgator composisition in cream formulation ethyl-acetate fraction from jackfruit bark extract (Artocarpus heterophyllus Lamk). Jurnal Ilmu Kefarmasian Indonesia, 15(2), 134–139. https://doi.org/10.35814/jifi.v15i2.503
Eun, C. H., Kang, M. S. & Kim, I. J. (2020). Elastase/collagenase inhibition compositions of Citrus unshiu and its association with phenolic content and anti-oxidant activity. Applied Sciences (Switzerland), 10(14), 1–11. https://doi.org/10.3390/app10144838
Gajic, I. M. S., Boskov, I. A. & Savic, I. M. (2021). Black locust flowers as a natural source of antioxidants: Sustainable production of high-quality oil from plum by-product and its incorporation in the moisturizing cream. Cleaner Engineering and Technology, 3(1), 1–6. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.clet.2021.100135
Ghimeray, A. K., Jung, U. S., Lee, H. Y., Kim, Y. H., Ryu, E. K. & Chang, M. S. (2015). In vitro antioxidant, collagenase inhibition, and in vivo anti-wrinkle effects of combined formulation containing Punica granatum, Ginkgo biloba, Ficus carica, and Morus alba fruits extract. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 8, 389–396. https://doi.org/10.2147/CCID.S80906
Handayani, S., Aprilia, D., Nisa, K., Rosyida, V. T., Wulanjati, M. P., Windarsih, A., Darsih, C., Frediansyah, A. & Haryanti, S. (2021). A mini-review: possible mechanisms of hepatoprotective effect of aloe vera gel. Indonesian Journal of Cancer Chemoprevention, 12(3), 170–179. https://doi.org/10.14499/indonesianjcanchemoprev12iss3pp170-179
Handayani, S., Ni’maturrohmah, D., Indrianingsih, A. W., Nisa, K., Windarsih, A., Darsih, C., Sefrienda, A. R., Suryani, A. E. & Haryanti, S. (2023). Molecular docking study of aloesin and its derivatives as potential antiaging agents. Proceedings of the 1st International Conference for Health Research (ICHR BRIN), 1(1), 288–299. https://doi.org/10.2991/978-94-6463-112-8_28
Ijaz, N., Durrani, A. I., Rubab, S. & Bahadur, S. (2022). Formulation and characterization of Aloe vera gel and tomato powder containing cream. Acta Ecologica Sinica, 42(2), 34–42. https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.1016/j.chnaes.2021.01.005
Indrianingsih, A. W., Khasanah, Y., Noviana, E., Rahayu, E., Hastuti, H. P., Ni’maturrohmah, D., Suryani, A. E., Darsih, C., Windarsih, A. & Handayani, S. (2023). The effect of soaking of white and red varieties of Sorghum bicolor flour on its antioxidant, antidiabetic and physicochemical properties. Food and Humanity, 1, 1531–1538. https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foohum.2023.10.020
Jeong, H. D., Kim, J. H., Kwon, G. E. & Lee, S. T. (2022). Expression of Polyamine Oxidase in Fibroblasts Induces MMP-1 and Decreases the Integrity of Extracellular Matrix. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 23(18). https://doi.org/10.3390/ijms231810487
Junaidi, L., Wijaya, H., Jarief, R. S. & Angkasa, D. (2021). Pengaruh proses fermentasi dan non-fermentasi serta pengeringan dengan metode spray drying terhadap mutu serbuk minuman instan dari buah naga merah (Hylocereus polyrhizus). Warta Industri Hasil Pertanian, 38(2), 98–107. https://doi.org/10.32765/wartaihp.v38i2.6986
Kanthik, T., Lokham, S. & Sungthongjeen, S. (2020). Development of sunscreen products containing titanium dioxide and Aloe vera gel. Key Engineering Materials, 859(1), 159–165. https://doi.org/10.4028/www.scientific.net/KEM.859.159
Karwal, K. & Mukovozov, I. (2023). Topical AHA in dermatology: formulations, mechanisms of action, efficacy, and future perspectives. Cosmetics, 10(5), 1–12. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics10050131
Kemenkes RI. (2017). Farmakope Herbal Indonesia Edisi II. Kementerian Kesehatan Republik Indonesia. https://farmalkes.kemkes.go.id/unduh/farmakope-herbal-indonesia-edisi-ii-tahun-2017/
Liu, C., Cui, Y., Pi, F., Cheng, Y., Guo, Y. & Qian, H. (2019). Extraction, purification, structural characteristics, biological activities and pharmacological applications of acemannan, a polysaccharide from Aloe vera: A review. Molecules, 24(8), 1–21. https://doi.org/10.3390/molecules24081554
Madan, K. & Nanda, S. (2018). In-vitro evaluation of antioxidant, anti-elastase, anti-collagenase, anti-hyaluronidase activities of safranal and determination of its sun protection factor in skin photoaging. Bioorganic Chemistry, 77, 159–167. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bioorg.2017.12.030
Mahmudatussa’adah, A., Nurani, A. S., Karpin, Juwaedah, A. & Patriasih, R. (2023). The potential of purple sweet potato and rosella flower extract as a health drink. AIP Conference Proceedings, 2734(1), 40004. https://doi.org/10.1063/5.0155370
Metcalfe, C. (2019). Quantitation of Aloe vera polysaccharides by O-acetyl and UV-Vis spectrophotometry. Journal of AOAC International, 102(4), 1091–1094. https://doi.org/10.5740/jaoacint.18-0400
Meza-Valle, K. Z., Saucedo-Acuña, R. A., Tovar-Carrillo, K. L., Cuevas-González, J. C., Zaragoza-Contreras, E. A. & Melgoza-Lozano, J. (2021). Characterization and topical study of aloe vera hydrogel on wound-healing process. Polymers, 13(22). https://doi.org/10.3390/polym13223958
Miastkowska, M., Kulawik-Pióro, A. & Szczurek, M. (2020). Nanoemulsion gel formulation optimization for burn wounds: Analysis of rheological and sensory properties. Processes, 8(11), 1–26. https://doi.org/10.3390/pr8111416
Monica, E., Yuliati, L. & Yuniati, Y. (2020). Red Pigmented Natural Extract as Potential Organic UV Filter and Its Use in Combination with ZnO as Sunscreen Cream. Hsic 2019, 176–180. https://doi.org/10.5220/0009126501760180
Okafo, S. E., Anie, C. O., Alalor, C. A. & Nwankwo, L. U. (2023). Evaluation of physicochemical and antimicrobial properties of creams formulated using Pterocarpus santalinoides seeds methanol extract. Journal of Applied Pharmaceutical Science, 13(5), 126–135. https://doi.org/10.7324/JAPS.2023.19934
Plácido, A., Bueno, J., Barbosa, E. A., Moreira, D. C., Dias, J. D. N., Cabral, W. F., Albuquerque, P., Bessa, L. J., Freitas, J., Kuckelhaus, S. A. S., Lima, F. C. D. A., Batagin-Neto, A., Brand, G. D., Relvas, J. B., Leite, J. R. S. A. & Eaton, P. (2020). The antioxidant peptide salamandrin-i: First bioactive peptide identified from skin secretion of salamandra genus (Salamandra salamandra). Biomolecules, 10(4), 1–20. https://doi.org/10.3390/biom10040512
Ramadhani, R. R., Pangkahila, W. & Wiraguna, A. A. G. P. (2019). Rosella Flower 3% (Hibiscus sabdariffa) Extract Inhibited the Expression of Matrix Metalloproteinase-1 dan Collagen Reduction on Wistar Rat Exposed to Ultraviolet-B. International Journal of Science and Research (IJSR), 10(1), 2019–2022. https://doi.org/10.21275/SR21112182003
Sandi, D. A. D. & Susiani, E. F. (2021). Formulation of edible bird’s nest (Aerodramus fuciphagus) from Central Kalimantan as skin whitening and moisturizing cream. Journal of Pharmacy and Bioallied Sciences, 13(1), 39–45. https://doi.org/10.4103/jpbs.JPBS_276_19
Sangthong, S., Pintathong, P., Pongsua, P., Jirarat, A. & Chaiwut, P. (2022). Polysaccharides from Volvariella volvacea mushroom: extraction, biological activities and cosmetic efficacy. Journal of Fungi, 8(6), 1–19. https://doi.org/10.3390/jof8060572
Sedyadi, E., Aini, S. K., Anggraini, D. & Ekawati, D. P. (2016). Starch-Glycerol Based Edible Film and Effect of Rosella (Hibiscus Sabdariffa Linn) Extract and Surimi Dumbo Catfish (Clarias gariepinus) Addition on Its Mechanical Properties. Biology, Medicine, & Natural Product Chemistry, 5(2), 33. https://doi.org/10.14421/biomedich.2016.52.33-40
Shi, X.-D., Nie, S.-P., Yin, J.-Y., Que, Z.-Q., Zhang, L.-J. & Huang, X.-J. (2017). Polysaccharide from leaf skin of Aloe barbadensis Miller: Part I. Extraction, fractionation, physicochemical properties and structural characterization. Food Hydrocolloids, 73, 176–183. https://doi.org/https://doi.org/10.1016/j.foodhyd.2017.06.039
Sturza, A., Păucean, A., Chiș, M. S., Mureșan, V., Vodnar, D. C., Man, S. M., Urcan, A. C., Rusu, I. E., Fostoc, G. & Muste, S. (2020). Influence of buckwheat and buckwheat sprouts flours on the nutritional and textural parameters of wheat buns. Applied Sciences (Switzerland), 10(22), 1–21. https://doi.org/10.3390/app10227969
Tungadi, R., Madania & Aini, B. H. (2022). Formulasi dan evaluasi sabun padat transparan dari ekstrak bunga rosella (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.). Indonesian Journal of Pharmaceutical Education, 2(2), 117–124. https://doi.org/10.37311/ijpe.v2i2.14060
Published
2025-03-26
How to Cite
Wulandari, R., Chandra, E. C., Arsiningtyas, I. S., Ni’maturrohmah, D., Suryani, A. E., Darsih, C., Haryanti, S., Rahmah, N. M., & Handayani, S. (2025). Physicochemical evaluation and delayed aging activity of the cream containing aloe vera and rosella extracts. Indonesian Journal of Pharmacy. https://doi.org/10.22146/ijp.16388
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Section
Research Article
